Studio Seven :: Customized Sewing Machine Cover

Years ago, I made a perfectly good sewing machine cover using Camille/thimble blossoms' Just Swell pattern, and it served me very well until I purchased a cone of Aurifil 50wt late last year. Quite simply, the original cover no longer fit. And even though I sew frequently, if not covered, my machine gets very dusty very quickly. So I've been wanting to replace my method of tossing a small quilt over the machine with a cover that actually fit it.

Back in the summer, when I made the paper-pieced Geometric Sewing Machine by Kristy/Quiet Play, I though it would make a fun front for a sewing machine cover. Nowhere did I find a pattern for a cover to accommodate a cone, so I finally had to wing it.

This isn't a full-fledged tutorial with photos of every step, but those willing to take a gamble too, here's what I did, with all seams being 1/4":

   1. Measure in front from table to top of thread holder - the tallest point of your machine. [front height]
   2. Measure in back from table to top of thread holder - the tallest point of your machine. [back height]
   3. Measure widest portion of your machine. [width]
   4. Measure deepest portion of your machine. [depth]
   5. For the front panel, I added 1" to my front height and width measurements and framed my paper-pieced block to become that dimension. I placed it on top of a piece of cotton batting and quilted. (If you want to do dense quilting, or have more leeway, quilt your front panel before trimming to size.) Of course, any block or design as a focal would be fine or even a single fabric.
   6. For the back panel, I added 1" to my back height and width measurements, placed it on top of a piece of cotton batting and quilted. (If you want to do dense quilting, or have more leeway, quilt your back panel before trimming to size.)
   7. Sew front and back panels together along top edges and press open.

***Note that while I thought my front and back heights might make more of difference in how I assembled the final piece, it really didn't, so if I was to do this again, I'd probably make one long panel, as shown below.

8. For the end pieces, choose an ultra firm fusible stabilizer as a base. I used pellon Peltex 71F. See diagram below for measurements of end pieces. For the top curve, I used a roll of painter's tape with a 3" center. I drew right on the non-fusible side of the stabilizer, fused onto my fabric, then cut out. You'll need two, one for each end.

9. Now that you have your front/back panel and end pieces, use them as templates to cut out lining pieces.
10. For outside of cover, find center of panel piece on one side and mark with a pin (or marker). Fold one end piece in half lengthwise to find the center top, and mark it. I found it easiest to start sewing the pieces together at this point, down along one side of end piece. Then flip as needed and sew down the other side of the end piece. Repeat for opposite side. Now your outer cover is complete. If needed, trim any pieces necessary so the bottom edges are even all the way around. My trimming was minimal, but there was a bit.

11. Repeat step #10 with your lining pieces. Turn right-side out.
12. Slip lining into outer cover so right sides are together. Pin along edges, matching corners. Sew seam around this edge, leaving an opening of 10-12" long back edges, back-stitching at beginning and end of stitching.
13. Turn entire piece right sides out, and tuck lining into cover, pressing edges well. Press seam allowance in at opening and pin. Top stitch along entire edge, catching seam allowances of opening securely.

So, I made it up as I went and it turned out ok! It is tall, but it serves the purpose well, and besides....this project was on my 2015 Q4 Finish-A-Long list!

For previous studio updates, see hashtag #aqtstudio on Instagram, or individual posts below:

• Ironing Board Cover
• Design Wall
• Mailing Supplies
• Storing Quilts
• Sewing and Cutting Surface
• Pressing Surface

Linking up with Sew Modern Monday.