Compass Bag II

Even though I loved the Ainsley Bag I made a few few weeks ago, I knew almost immediately that it was too small for my day to day use. As I was considering what to make to serve my purposes, I decided I really wanted to use that Meadow in Dusk from Dusk Fusion by Bonnie Christine again in some way. For my Ainsley Bag, I used it for the exterior fabric. Turns out, this time, it became the bag lining.

Looking through my bag patterns, I selected Noodlehead's Compass Bag, which I didn't remember at first that I'd made before. When I realized it, I was pretty sure it would be a good choice, so I forged ahead with plans to make the small version, which measures 9.5" wide x 11" high x 4" deep. Rummaging through my stash, I struggled a bit about what to use for an exterior fabric, and finally decided to try some leather I'd been given. I wasn't 100% sure how it would work out but figured it was worth a try.

Right off, I knew I'd use Aurifil Forty3. Luckily I had 1246 [Grey], which coordinated beautifully with the light gray leather, with 40wt in the bobbin and a 100/16 needle. I also used my Non-Stick Sewing Presser Foot, which sews on leather without marring the surface. Someone had told me about it, and I was dubious due to the low price, but it's been working great for me.

The pattern calls for interfacing most pattern pieces with Pellon SF101, but I omitted that on all the leather pieces. It also suggested a canvas layer behind all the exterior pieces, and for better or worse, I went ahead and added that. Later, I was thinking maybe that might not have been necessary, and just added to the thickness of the layers, and the weight of the bag.

Due to the use of the leather, there were several things I did differently than the pattern suggested:

• Omitted the rivets on View A side pockets
• Used just one layer of leather for the strap tabs and D-ring holders
• Omitted the top-stitching on the final exterior seam - there was just no way to scrunch the leather under the needle to make it happen
• Glued that final exterior seam and let it dry well with a clapper on top
• Before stitching the final top-stitching around the top of the bag, I hammered the thickest seams at the sides, front, and back from the inside (not directly on the leather)

As often is the case, I just grabbed the leather strap I'd been using on a previous bag to use on this new one, as the hardware matched. I'm thinking I'll consider the two bags as a 'set' - using the one I need to on any particular day. Meanwhile, the Compass is much roomier than the Ainsley, though not huge, and I'm already enjoying using it.

Compass Bag

When Anna/noodlehead came out with her Compass Bag a couple of years ago, I really liked it, but I didn't need a new bag then, so passed it by. Fast forward to this fall when I did need a new bag, and when I saw Anna had remade the Compass using waxed canvas, I was sold. I decided to make the small version, 9½” W, 11” H, 4” deep, with the slip style exterior pockets. 

  

It took me a while to gather my supplies:

• The pattern, of course. 
• Waxer Canvas by Robert Kaufman, which is what Anna used in her bag. I ordered it in Olive from Bijou Lovely, 8.2 oz. weight, 100% cotton, 57" wide which meant I only needed 1/2 yard to make the small version of the bag, with plenty to spare.
• Big Sur Canvas in ivory, which I used to stabilize the Waxer Canvas, per Anna's advice.
• Magnetic Button Clasp Snaps.
• 1" antique brass hardware set from by annie which included 2 D-rings, 2 swivel snap hooks, and 1 wide-mouth slider (which I didn't end up using).

I already had other supplies on hand - lining fabric, Carolyn Friedlander's scallop in olive and brown from her harriot line; rivets; 1" leather for the handle. 

Now there's a couple of things to remember when working with waxed canvas. 

• Do Not use your iron or you'll mar the canvas. All 'pressing' needs to be finger pressing.
• Don't use pins either; use wonder clips if needed.
• Expect the 'fabric' to become distressed as you work with it. To quote the Robert Kaufman website: "Fabric cracks, scratches, wrinkles and creases are a natural part of this fabric’s character as it ages and patinas."

So back to the bag itself.... as is my nature with bag-making, it's a thoughtful, methodical process, ie. not necessarily speedy. I take it easy, one step or two at a time. After a while, I reached the step where I 'got' to add some rivets, which was a whole 'nother thing. The Compass Bag hardware was some of what called me to this bag, but that doesn't mean I'm completely comfortable with it. A quick review of Anna's "installing rivets" tutorial, and I was feeling pretty good.



The bag also features two interior pockets - a slip pocket as well as a zippered pocket, in a configuration that is really unique - one on top of the other. I made the most of those details by fussy-cutting the scallop design of my lining fabric. 

So hard to get a good photo, but maybe you can look close and see the scallop inside the zippered pocket as well? I know no one will see that once the bag is in use, but you know I will!

There were a couple of options for the handle, and I loved the look of the leather. It involved a few more rivets, but that went well.

In fact they were one of the details I really loved - that and the handle hardware, and especially that D-Ring Holder and Strap Tab with an 'X' combo. Oh yeah.

So I took the bag out for a trial run yesterday and it felt great! It's a little bigger than I needed, but is definitely a pretty normal 'purse' size, and gotta say, I really love it. When I started, I didn't really realize it would be so distressed, and actually worried about that in the process, but as a finished bag, I'm really liking it, and am very glad I tried it!

   

Anyone out there like to make their own handmade purses? I looked back, and this is the sixth one I've made for myself since 2013. I think it's a fun thing for a maker like me.