About that Binding

The first time I did it, it was on a whim.

But I was compelled to do it again.

It just seemed right to do it again.

And last week, I did it yet again.

I guess when it comes right down to it, you'd call it "matched" binding. Basically, I make binding strips in different colors, approximating the size of what they need to cover and match. Then I trim and add as I get to the next section. Ie. Machine-stitch, measure-cut-add another color, machine-stitch....continue. Matching binding at a 'straight' seam is about 150% times easier than at an angle, which I did on quilts #2 and #3 above. So let's start there!

Measure around your quilt and jot down how many inches of each color of binding you will need, allowing yourself at least 6-8" extra in length (more if you will be adding in any particular color more than once, like I did with the white binding in the picture above). Cut and prep binding as you usually do.

Now begin sewing binding on just like normal, stopping a couple of inches before the change in color. 

With the binding laying flat, mark where the colors meet, then measure and cut 1/4" past that. Basically, you are just giving yourself a seam-allowance for adding on the next color.

Stitch the two colors together, right-sides together with 1/4" seam and finger-press seam open. (Normally I piece binding with a diagonal seam, but to get that right-out-to-the-edge look, it'll need to be straight.)

Just keep sewing around your quilt, repeating this process while adding your matching binding strips.

All stitched on and just finish as you normally do. (If you machine-stitch your binding from the back, it should work the same way!)

So there you go . . .

If you try this method, be sure and tag with #matchedbinding and tag me when you post on Instagram!

Linking up with TNT Thursday, show off friday, sew and tell, and Fabric Tuesday.

Angled Matched Binding

I've been meaning to write this post for ages. Whether you know what I mean by matched binding or not, as a refresher, I suggest you read this post. I'll wait . . .

SO, as I said then, matching binding at a 'straight' seam is about 150% times easier than at an angle. I have managed doing it at an angle twice, but both times it was a headache, and I knew I needed to take the time to document the process so I didn't have to waste time re-figuring it out every time I wanted to do it. So finally, this past week, I did just that.

To start, measure around your quilt and jot down how many inches of each color of binding you will need, allowing yourself at least 6-8" extra in length for each section. Then cut strips for each section, and press each in half lengthwise just like you'd usually do for double-fold binding. Lay two colored strips alongside your quilt, about where they will be sewn on. Cut both ends on an angle as shown below. Do take note of the angle you are trying to match. Pictured, mine happens to be a 60-degree angle on my quilt, so I cut the binding at 60-degrees, just in the opposite direction.

Stitch ends with 1/4" seam. Press seam open, then repress binding strip for a nice edge.

Pin the binding to the quilt, with raw edges matching.

Fold binding strip up so you can see how things are lining up. Unpin and adjust as needed.

Now to tackle the next angle. Pin binding to quilt every few inches, smoothing as you go and placing a pin at the next binding color change location.

Turn binding up and using a removable marking pen, make a mark on the side next to the quilt, extending the angle of the line.

Unpin the binding strip, lay a clear ruler over your mark, and draw a line 1/4" away, toward the loose end of the binding. Use your rotary cutter to cut along this longer line. Now you're ready to cut and add the next color as in the first step above. Continue on as your particular project requires! Though it involves some up and down, I find it easiest to machine-stitch one connection and pin it in place, then measure, cut, and add another color, pin in place, etc., moving around the perimeter of your quilt. Eventually you'll have the entire binding pinned on and you'll just machine-stitch it on. I usually finish my binding with hand-stitching, but if you machine-stitch your binding, it should work the same way.

Good luck and have fun using this technique on just the right quilt!

If you try this method, be sure and add a picture to Quilting with A Quilter's Table on flickr!

Wordy Mouse Pad :: A Tutorial

A while back I made a mouse pad for my desk at work and have really been enjoying the fun bit of quiltiness in my office. When I decided to make another for a friend this week, I decided to document it in case you'd like to make one too!

click here for pdf format

Supplies Needed:

• one plain standard mouse pad, 7 7/8" x 9 1/4"
• cotton batting, 8 1/2" x 10"
• a variety of text fabric strips, cut 1" to 2 1/2"
• one piece text fabric, square or rectangle cut no larger than 3 1/2" on any side (will be used as 'center' of off-set log cabin piecing)
• two pieces of fabric for mouse pad bottom sleeves, cut 6 1/2" x 10", pressed in half so they each measure 3 1/2" x 10"
• backing fabric, at least 8 1/2" x 10"
• typewriter motif for applique (one shown is from Melody Miller's Ruby Star Shining collection, trimmed about 1/8" outside of design lines)
• binding fabric (for single-fold binding, 1 1/4" x approximately 40", pieced as needed)
• coordinating thread for piecing, quilting, and binding
• contrasting thread for raw-edge applique
• needle for hand-stitching binding
• spray-baste (I found spray-baste to be a good way to secure pieces without adding bulk. If you prefer, feel free to use another method.)

Instructions:

Begin by placing the 'center' square or rectangle on your batting, off-centered toward the upper-left corner. I prefer for a good portion of it to show once the typewriter is sewn on. Secure the 'center' to your batting with a quick spritz of spray-baste.

For your first seam, place a fabric strip along the right side of the 'center', lining up top and right side edges. Stitch a 1/4" seam, stopping when you have reached the bottom of the 'center' piece. Trim away the extra length of your strip. Finger-press open, so both pieces of fabric are right-side up. From there, continue constructing your log cabin 'block' by sewing additional strips to bottom, left, top, right, etc., finger-pressing each strip open after sewing before placing and sewing the next strip. The next two photos show the adding of a strip a few rows out.

If your batting becomes covered on any one side, just ignore that side as you continue adding strips until your entire batting piece is covered. Press well.

Baste your completed piece on top of your backing fabric, wrong sides together, using a bit of spray-baste. Quilt your piece as desired. Trim front and back fabrics even with your 8 1/2" x 10" batting piece if needed.

Baste typewriter motif off-centered on quilted piece, securing with another spritz of spray baste. 

Using contrasting thread and a regular stitch length, raw-stitch applique around motif, stitching between design edge and fabric edge (only about 1/8" wide). Slow your machine as you stitch around corners or curves to keep the stitching within the tight margin. Go around your motif twice. It is not necessary or even desirable to sew exactly on top of your first stitching the second time around. 

Turn your mat so back is facing up. Place a folded sleeve piece along the right and left sides of the mat, matching raw edges. Sew the three edges on each side (right and left) so sleeves are secured to the back of your mat. I sew just inside the 1/4" seam allowance.

Use single-fold binding to bind your mat. (verykerryberry has an excellent tutorial if this is a new technique for you.) Basically, sew edge of binding around the perimeter of the mat, mitering corners and allowing for seaming where ends meet. 

From right side, press the binding towards the outside as well as you can. It will look something like this from  the back side.

Fold raw edge in to meet edge of mat, and press as well as you can. Fold binding in towards the mat and hand-stitch along seam line.

Take your purchased mouse pad and slip into your quilted 'cover'.

There! Your Wordy Mouse Pad is ready to use!

Linking up with Fabric Tuesday!

Making Scrappy Potholders

A while back, my friend Linda @flourishingpalms said she'd appreciate a tutorial for how I make potholders - specifically the layering sequence of fabric, batting, and Insulbrite. Knowing I could quite easily provide that, I put it on my 'to do' list for 2026. Finally, when I was in the mood for some scrappy free-sewing last week, I knew the time had come.

Not all potholders need to be scrappy, of course. Feel free to use orphan blocks, or make any pattern you wish for the front. For the purpose of this tutorial, I sewed scraps together with the goal of two 8" square-ish potholders. I stopped piecing when my slabs were 9"-10" square.

Of course, then I needed backings. I opted to use larger sized scraps this time, though sometimes I choose a stashed print so the pair has matching backs.

I like my potholders quilted, so here's where the layering comes in. I place the backing right-side down, then top it with a layer of Insulbrite.

Next comes a layer of cotton batting.

And finally, the pieced slab is placed on top, right-side up. I like to baste the layers with a shot of spray baste, but feel free to baste in whatever way you like. It won't take much, since the quilt sandwich is so small. 

Now quilt as desired. Here too, it won't take much. I often like straight lines or a grid, often following the lines of the piecing OR marked with a hera marker. Below are examples of the type of quilting I usually do, from a batch of scrappy potholders I made back in 2022.

And below is how I quilted this pair.

Though I've made potholders in a variety of shapes, these days I almost always trim them with the unique shape I saw Hannah Haberkern @verdigrissewing use several years ago. For my template, I drew an 8" square on copy paper, then rounded two opposite corners. The nice thing about making your slabs a little larger than needed is that you can choose the orientation later in the process - straight on or angled.

For this pair, I chose angled.

Once trimmed into a square, I use a marking pen to trace the rounded corners, and then cut along those lines with scissors. I just get a neater corner that way than with a rotary cutter.

Then it's time to bind! Though maybe not quite necessary, I like to use bias binding on these. About 42" of binding is plenty for each one. Though I often use 2" binding for hand-binding quilts, I like 2.25" wide for potholders, as I tend to sew it completely by machine. Machine sew onto the back, then fold over to the front. When machine-binding, I find frequent use of wonder clips to be a big help in keeping things in place.

So once they're bound, they're done! 

I hope you find this tutorial helpful! Let me know if there are any questions. And I sure hope you enjoy making some of your own. I find them a terrific way to use some scraps!